Singer 66, crinkle finish. For sale at NC TOGA

 

Here's a 1936 Singer 66. 

NC TOGA is coming up in June.  If you don't know what that is I'll be describing it in a future post.  One of the things it is, is a swap meet.  I have some machines for sale.

 

This machine has a crinkle finish, aka Godzilla.   The finish is generally in decent shape but there is wear along the front edge of the bed and the bed decal is almost gone.

 

 

The lore that I have always heard is that the crinkle finish was a WWII modification, something to do with supply shortages.  The 1936 date casts doubt on this!  Please post in the comments section any lore or mythology or outright lies about the crinkle finish that you have heard.

 

The slide plate was missing and I have replaced it with one from a Singer 285.  This slide plate is very, very, very tight.  As in: almost impossible to move it.   If I were going to keep it I would attack the grooves in the slide plate with a Dremel.  Or you can just order a new slide plate.  One of the best things about antique Singers is that modern replacement parts are available, especially for common models like the 66.

 

The spool pin was also missing.  You will see in the photo that a bamboo skewer makes a dandy replacement.  This high tech upgrade is included in the price.  Unless I can find my missing box of spool pins harvested from dead machines.

 

Folks, I acquired this machine 10 years ago and have not touched it since.  NO servicing was done on it when I bought it--it didn't even make it into my sewing machine spreadsheet.  The motor and light work.  When I threaded it and made some stitches it sewed beautifully.  The stitch length lever works.  It sewed through up to 16 layers of quilting cotton without a fuss.  I  DO recommend that the buyer oil it up however!  (I'm in a rush right now to get ready for TOGA in case you are wondering why the heck I haven't bothered--I've listed 14 machines for sale this week including all the photo-taking and photo-editing as well as the blog-writing.)

 

If you are seriously interested we can certainly oil it together when you check it out at TOGA.  Another reason I haven't done this is that I am enormously impressed by its performance after a minimum of ten years without oiling.   And I want you to see that too!

 

It's reasonably clean inside, which in this case means it is not gunked up inside with dried up sewing machine oil.  There is some, yes, but as mentioned all the parts are turning freely.

 

The nose plate has a pretty design.  It is not corroded which means it should polish up nicely.

 

The motor and motor controller, aka foot pedal, are obviously old but are functioning.

I have a partial paper copy of the manual.  The cover is missing and possibly the first and last few pages.  I can also email a PDF to the buyer.

 

I have some blackside presser feet to go with it. 

I usually fall in love with machines as I service them but I've fallen in love with this one while taking its pictures.  Here's why:  the tensioner and the bobbin winder.

BELOW ARE MY OPINIONS.  BASED ON EXPERIENCE BUT JUST OPINIONS

The rule of thumb with tensioners is this:  the simpler the better.  The very best ones, hands down, were the leaf tensioners on the 1880's machines.  Google them, or better yet catch me, Linda, or Missie at TOGA and we will tell you.  We are charter members (and so far the only members) of the Leaf Tensioners Fan Club.  We have t-shirts to prove it.  You can join us simply by claiming membership but we only made three t-shirts!

 

This machine does not have a leaf tensioner but the one it does have is very simple.  The newest newbie at sewing machine restoration could successfully take it apart to clean it and get it back together again.  And there will be people at TOGA happy to metaphorically hold your hand while you do it.

Metaphorically because actually you'll be using your hands, won't you?

 

 

Same rule goes for bobbin winders.  This one is extremely simple.  Push it up against the hand wheel to wind a bobbin.  Push it down again afterwards.  No latches.  No springs.  Pretty much nothing to go wrong.

 

 

There is no reverse stitch but nobody really needs one.  I do hear of people who walk away from machines with no reverse.  But how hard is it to simply hold the fabric in place (not letting the feed dogs advance the fabric) for the first and last two stitches.  That's all it takes to lock your seam.  Honestly.

 

 

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Here's how this works:  I  create a blog post for each machine and describe what I know about it in detail, pros and cons.  Once I have all the machines up on this blog I will post a price list at the NC TOGA Facebook page.  If you are attending the TOGA and are seriously interested let me know and I will bring it.  "Seriously interested" means that you plan to buy it IF you like what you see in person.  Absolutely NO obligation in advance and I won't take any money in advance.  

Cash or PayPal.  I don't use any other payment apps.  Hey, I'm an old lady.  Can't be learning new apps all the time.

Once the price list is up you can call dibs on any machine and I will make sure you get to see it and decide if you want it before anyone else can buy it.

This approach has worked very well in the past.  Just please don't ask me to haul 40+ pounds of cast iron across North Carolina if all you want to do is ogle it.  Serious interest only please.

Some of these machines will have been serviced and some will not so read the descriptions carefully.  It is not my usual practice to sell machines that I have not serviced first.  But I really need to downsize the herd and TOGA is almost here.  Many TOGAteers are experienced antique sewing machine mechanics themselves.  They will also be glad to provide advice to others about whether a machine is a good choice for a newbie.