Saving History From The Scrapyard, One Sewing Machine At A Time
See you then! All good health and excellent work for all in the meantime.
I'm proceeding with my repaint but it will be sad to not have your guidance! Hope all goes well in the next few months. We'll be eagerly awaiting your update on the soon-to-be-pink 99! My project Featherweight is going to be sort of purple/blue.
Hi all! I wanted to chime in because I'm in the middle of repainting my Featherweight with the hammered Rust-Oleum paint. I love it! And thanks for the tip about using the xylene every few dips in the paint to keep it from gumming up. And thin coats! I learned that the hard way. I also wanted everyone else to know that maybe the formula has changed, but the "black" hammered Rust-Oleum in a can (not spray) is definitely not black. It looks black in your pictures of the VS2. Is it the lighting, or do you think the manufacturer changed the color? If you're looking for a true black, try the Hammerite, I guess. I'm not thrilled with dark gray, but in some light it sort of looks black. Good luck, everyone!
So glad your project is going well.The black hammered Rustoleum appears gun metal gray to me. I actually like this, especially on treadle irons. I think it is a softer color more appropriate to the age of the machine.
It is all a question of personal preferences.
Thanks so much, Cheryl! I'm getting used to it, and I swear it looks darker to me today. Maybe it darkens as it cures. Decals go on this weekend, I think!
Cheryl knows this already, but for the rest of you... If you use the hammered Rust-Oleum (which I loved working with), DON'T make the mistake I did and use an enamel clear coat over it. It crinkled up my paint. I had to strip it and repaint. Thankfully, I tried out the clear coat on two small pieces of the machine, not the body. I'm heading out today to buy what Cheryl used (either a Rust-Oleum acrylic lacquer, or something called "crystal clear" by Krylon). Good luck, everyone!
Sorry, everyone, one more update. I spoke to customer service at Rust-Oleum and they said the issue I had should not have anything to do with whether I used enamel or lacquer. In fact, they recommended not using lacquer because it has harsher solvents. They were baffled by why the wrinkling happened, but they said that's a solvent reaction and it means the paint wasn't fully cured. I'm going to wait another few days and try the underside of the bed extension (I'm painting a Featherweight) to see how it reacts. If it wrinkles, I'm not sure what to do next. I'd hate to have to strip the paint after I finished and put on the decals.
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